Concert Review: Chara (live at the Urban Simple Life Festival - Xinyi 信義)

Chara is known for her childish "whisper" voice.
At 47, she should also be known for her inability to age!
She plays the guitar and piano, and writes nearly all of her songs.
(Photo from her Facebook page).

Chara (real name: Watabiki Miwa 綿引美和), is hands-down my favorite female Japanese singer. I discovered her music as a junior high student when I was looking for new Japanese artists to listen to. Immediately, I was mesmerized by her soft, slightly raspy voice which occasionally takes on a husky, almost harsh tone. Chara's speaking voice is actually somewhat deep, yet it often transforms into a light, high-pitched tone when she sings.

I admire the personal nature of Chara's music and her willingness to share her deep inner feelings in her lyrics. Innocence (Sweet), intimacy (Junior Sweet, her performance of this song with TSPO on the left), and divorce (Breaking Hearts) have all been subjects of her songs. I admire Chara because no topic appears to be "off limits" for her when writing music. Chara's creativity transcends her sound; to add a sense of childlike innocence to her songs, she often uses the male personal pronoun boku (僕).

Chara's thoughtfulness in regards to her music hasn't changed since her major debut in 1990, yet her style has evolved through many phases: mainstream with a touch of black gospel in the early 90s; acoustic-heavy in the mid to late 90s; experimental indie in the early 2000s; mainstream pop in the mid 2000s; and mostly popish experimental indies style today. Nevertheless, she has always distinctly remained herself.

Chara peaked in popularity in the mid-90s after her lead role in the successful Shunji Iwai film, Swaillowtail Butterfly. In the film, she played Glico (yes, taken from the snack company), a Chinese immigrant turned lead singer of the fictional Yen Town Band; to accompany the movie, Chara and the Yen Town Band released a record which took first place on the Japanese Oricon music chart for quite some time. On the right is a clip of her gospel-like performance of Happy Toy from the 1997 Asasaka Blitz tour, not long after the movie was released. (A couple members of the Yen Town Band played support on the tour, and TSPO's founder ASA-CHANG was on percussion. He helped produce some of her songs as well). Despite her emergence as a well-known singer, actress, and fashion icon, after the 90s, Chara focused on motherhood and preferred a more indie existence as a musician.

Yasashii Kimochi (やさしい気持ち; Kind Feelings) - one of her most popular songs, second only to Swallowtail Butterfly - was the first song of her's that I heard all those years ago. Still, the dreamlike feeling of the song sounds fresh to me. To my delight, in 2013 Chara released Jewel, a self-cover album which includes Yasashii Kimochi, Swallowail Butterfly, and 10 other songs. I thought it would be amazing to watch her perform after Jewel was released because, naturally, she would be playing several songs from across her discography that she hadn't played in a few years. Little did I know I'd get an opportunity to see her without having to go to Japan!

Natrual Hair Overseas

September 2012
A couple months after the
big chop, transitioning hair
worn during graduation
(background photo).

After beginning my blog, the top question I've received relates to how I take care of my hair overseas. This may sound vain, but hair care is a very realistic concern for black women who travel and live abroad, especially in countries that lack a black population. Virtually no black people = no beauty products for black people. In fact, this is a phenomenon I have noticed in the States; in predominantly white neighborhoods, there aren't as many hair products for black women in even mainstream stores like Walmart and Target. Not being able to find beauty products suited for you can be frustrating. I mean, what girl doesn't want to look good no matter where she is in the world?

June 2015
A still a sizable afro,
patted down to look even.

Therefore, it's necessary for black women to equip themselves with the products and tools they need to maintain their hair overseas no matter what texture or state it's in. I have thick, coarse, kinky majority type 4c natural hair (aka, the "bad" hair - ha - with no distinct curls or waves that doesn't grow - haha - and only dark-skinned women have - hahaha) mixed in with a few random 4b hairs. It's a little past shoulder length when stretched completely, but it was only about two inches long when I first moved to Taiwan. So, if you have a different hair type or length, the products I mention or advice I give might not help you, but I think some tips I have could be of assistance no matter your hair type or state (relaxed, transitioning, ect). 

Also, I'm no hair guru or stylist; I'm just an everyday girl who had to care for her hair in a country with virtually no products made for her for nearly three years. In other words, I'm no expert! I'm just sharing my experiences in hopes they will help you or someone you know. 

I won't be discussing my "hair journey"; a short summary of that can be found here.

Tsukiji Fish Market (築地市場)

The main avenue leading to the market.

I have to say, my visit to Tsukiji Fish Market was a partial failure!

This gate belongs to Namiyoke Inari Shrine (波除稲荷神社),
The temple is hundreds of years old and the market was
built around it, thereby leaving it intact.

You see, my plan was to go to bed early the day before I planned to visit, wake up at around 2am, and grab a taxi to the market in order to sign up to see the auctions which take place in the 5 o'clock hour and end in the 6 o'clock hour. Tons of tourists would like to watch the auctions, yet there is not enough room in the market for the crowds. Therefore, only 120 people are allowed into the market per day. Luckily it's free, but you must get there extremely early in the morning to secure a place in either the 5:25 am to 5:50 am group or 5:50 am to 6:15 am group; 60 visitors are allowed to enter the market during each block of time.

Unfortunately, I came back to my apartment late the day before, so I woke up too late to sign up for the free tour. What a bummer! Fortunately, I still got out of bed early enough to catch the hustle and bustle at the market.

Tsukiji Fish Market is easily accessible. Simply take the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line to Tsukiji Station. Luckily, I was only two stops away (Kayabacho Station was 10 minutes from my apartment). The Tsukiji Fish Market is listed on the exit directory. I remember there is a Denny's restaurant adjacent to the correct exit. You'll simply have to walk north away from Denny's for almost 10 minutes until you see the market on your left.

Cherry blossoms @ Tian Yuan Temple (天元宮)

It kind of looks like the cherry blossoms are
growing out of my head!

Cherry blossoms are even more beautiful on
a sunny morning.

When I went to Tokyo, I missed the cherry blossoms there by a couple of weeks. Due to my schedule, I had no choice. Nonetheless, I don't regret it because Danshui is home to many cherry blossom trees in the mountains at the base of the scenic Tian Yuan Temple (tianyuan gong; 天元宮).

Every year, the flowers draw massive crowds from Taipei. Luckily, I lived 10 minutes away from the temple, so I could hop on the bus there without a hassle. However, the trip could take hours depended where you're coming from. If Taipei is your starting point, take the MRT to Danshui Station and take bus 875 of the cherry blossom viewing express straight to the temple. Naturally, the express only exists during cherry blossom season, yet the lines are long - extremely long. At the peak of cherry blossom season, they are even long on weekdays! However, the weekday crowd is definitely smaller than the weekend hoard.

The ride up the mountain to Tian Yuan Temple is fun, and the sights are majestic. One thing I love about the greater Taipei area are the rural pockets of semi-isolated communities and farm land. The morning I made my pilgrimage to the temple, it was gorgeous outside which significantly enhanced the view. I wasn't traveling far from home, but I still felt I was going on vacation. Once you're in northern Danshui's mountains, it feels like you're in a completely different city.

This was one of the few darker cherry blossom trees.

Hidden Gem: Ansen Patisserie

Ansen's unassuming signage.

I discovered Ansen Patisserie inadvertently while watching one of my favorite NHK World programs, Begin Japanology. The show is hosted by music critic and DJ Peter Barakan (ピーター　バラカン). (I use his Japanese language radio show Barakan Beat to practice listening). Each episode of Begin Japanology focuses on a specific aspect of Japanese culture. I watched the episode about bread (which can be found on the left) just days before taking off for Tokyo. 

Ansen bakery is close to Nishi-Ogikubo Station.
Follow the main road and look out for it
on your right.

Since I have IBS, additives and other chemicals irritate my digestive system and can cause painful reactions which last for days. Additives and processed ingredients like margarine oftentimes found in bread and pastries irritate my stomach but are common in Japanese, Korean, and Chinese-style bread (I have learned the hard way). So, I had concluded I wouldn't be eating bread in Tokyo, but Begin Japanology changed my mind with the snippet on Ansen Patisserie where all the bread and pastries are made by hand without additives.

The bakery is located in a quiet Nishiogikubo (西荻窪) district neighborhood. The area is easily accessible through the JR Chuo Line (rapid service) or Chuo-Sobu Line, which I took since I went on a weekend. By foot, bakery is a couple minutes west of Nishi-Ogikubo Station.

Liuhe Night Market (六合夜市)

The night market sign.

Liuhe Night Market (liuhe yeshi; 六合夜市) is not only the most popular night market in Kaohsiung, but it is arguably one of the best-known tourists attractions in the city. Open from 5pm to 6am (!), the market offers a wide variety of foods to try, especially seafood. Naturally, like the majority of night markets in Taiwan, items like toys and clothes are also for sale in the market. 

Accessing the Liuhe Night Market isn't complicated; simply take the MRT to Formosa Boulevard Station (meili dao zhan;美麗島站) and consult the exit guide to determine where the market is located. It's less than a five minute walk from the station. Luckily, my dad and I were staying down the street from Formosa Boulevard Station so we didn't have to ride the train to get to the market. 

When it comes to food, Dad isn't as adventurous as I am. Therefore, we ate dinner at out hotel before going to the night market in case he didn't see anything appealing enough to try. I had eaten too, but of course I saved enough room to indulge at the market. My infatuation with food is undying. ;)

Seafood is king at this night market,
but it comes at a hefty price...

My favorite thing about Liuhe Night Market was that there were several snacks on sale there that I hadn't seen in other markets. Also, the market was clean and organized - certainly a big plus. 

Still, as the market is strongly geared toward tourists, several items were overpriced. A small portion of BBQ squid which is usually seen for around 50NT was 100NT at Liuhe Night Market! Often times, you can buy three portions of BBQ squid for 100NT. I allowed myself to try a few snacks, but I skipped several dishes due to the unfair pricing.